17th May

For this post I will take you on a U-turn from the whiny scepticism of my previous effort to a joyful account of what took (and always takes) place last Sunday. It was Norway's national day, on which they celebrate the signing of their constitution on 17th May, 1814. Now, I was suprised to find out that Norway has only been independent since 1905, having previously been ruled by the Danish and later the Swedish crown for over 400 years. Due this fact, the Norwegians have cultivated an extremely strong sense of national identity and love of their country which would quite possibly make us baulk back in England. Seeing the Norwegian flag hung from every house and waving in every child's hand, I realised that when I see the Union Jack, I'm more likely to think of the BNP, and when I see the St. George's cross, more likely to think of skinhead football idiots, than of the country of which I am a citizen. This is a kind of patriotism unrelated to the success of the national football team or the 'British jobs for British workers' Brown-bullshit we get fed at home (nice image), it's more an appreciation of living in a democratic and friendly state and living in a beautiful country (which just happens to be bloody freezing, but that's by the by). I think it's a nice idea. That's not to say it doesn't border on the arrogant and snobby among some Norwegians, of course, but in general they showed me that patriotism doesn't have to be cheesy or repulsive. As is tradition, the day started for me with breakfast at a colleague's house on her rooftop terrace in the brilliant sunshine. We had got lucky, last year it snowed. The party consisted of three French people, one Norwegian and yours truly, so heavily-weighted towards foreigners, but it didn't seem to matter. Afterwards we walked down into the town centre amidst a jubilant carnival atmosphere, the crowd peppered with women and men in traditional costume, the bunad. Those not wearing the bunad were either dressed up to the nines, or tourists.
A girl wearing a bunad, leaning out of the window of Stortinget (the parliament) to watch the parade.

We then came to Oslo's main street, Karl Johans Gate, where the childrens' parade had already started. I have rarely seen so many people gathered in one place in my life:
Children from all of Oslo's schools were parading, in a parade so long it took 3 hours to finish. Away from the parade, people were gathered around the palace and in the neighbouring streets, tucking into the traditional dishes of hotdogs and ice-cream (not at the same time!) and generally having a good time. The 'russ' (school leavers) were strutting about like they owned the place and enjoying being rowdy and pissed, celebrating the last day of their celebrating.
Pictured: some russ partying on top of their bus at Solli Plass

After the childrens' parade there was some traditional choral singing on the University steps, which was most excellent. We rounded off the day with dinner in the park and a few drinks, by which point we were exhausted and somewhat less than ready to go to work the next day. I can say the same of the russ who had their first exams the next day too!

Alexander Rybak - The Second Coming?

Eurovision Song Contest 2009: Alexander Rybak celebrates. Photograph: Dmitry Kostyukov/AFP/Getty Images

You may or may not be aware that Norway won this year's Eurovision Song Contest with their entry Alexander Rybak and his crooning/fiddle-toting/catchy smash, Fairytale. Pretty good for one of Europe's smaller nations, who were erstwhile not known for producing international pop sensations and usually over-shadowed by their Scandinavian neighbours in that department (sorry, but Abba beats A-Ha hands down). But still, when I talk to people I find myself thinking... he won the Eurovision Song Contest for Christ's sake, not the Nobel Peace Prize. Coming from Britain, where Terry Wogan's derision of the greasy backing dancers and all too frequent bum notes is an integral part of the commentary, I was under the impression that no one takes it seriously. And we all know that the voting is politically motivated and has very little to do with the songs (see - Britain's null points the year of the Iraq war)... Even the sheer cheesiness of the music and the campness of the artists is enough to render itself laughable, surely. As my French colleague said, if it's a woman they are ridiculously slutty and if they're a man they are "deeply gay".
But nevertheless, it's a big deal here. And I'm not going to take that away from them. It's just a complete culture shock. Check out this article from the Guardian:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/media/organgrinder/2009/may/18/norway-eurovision-song-contest-heidi-stephens
It turns out that a Guardian journalist wrote a review of Eurovision on her blog, saying, among other things, that she hoped Alexander Rybak would get poked in the eye with his violin bow. Now, to be sure that's a bit of classic journo over-exaggeration, but little did she expect the way the Norwegians were to react. You can see in the article that two of the national newspapers here, VG and Dagbladet, picked up the story, spinning it as if The Guardian had been cruelly slating their little Alexander out of spite, presumably because Britain always does so badly and we are jealous. One commentator made the point that yes, Norwegians 'do understand irony', which is of course true, but they also have the inclination to take themselves and matters of national pride extremely seriously, which to a briton is cringe-worthy and uncomfortable and Just Not British. Self-derision is practically a national sport.
The best commentary left by a Norwegian comes at the end of the article:
Me1981 said: "Heidi we Norwegian DO understand and use irony, we have a very good sense of humour...the thing is, when we all read you blogg the first time we were drunk out of our minds..and when norwegians get drunk,not only do we get so waisted we're lucky if we're able to walk the next day-but we also get very excited..So if you felt attacked..believe me none of us even remember regist. on Guardian websight in the first place. I only found out since the sight was still showing on my computer the next day..I was like"What the ¤#&¤#? When did I reg here??"

Sums it up?!

In future I think I will pass all comment on this guy - if I let on to anyone that I hate his song I'll probably be deported...

Ok, I've been bullied into posting something else... it's fair to say my heart's not in it, but I'll give it my best shot. The problem is is that a travel blog is essentially for recording things you find amazing/think will be amazing to others. So I think the reason I've had nothing to write over the past few months is that I've just stopped finding things amazing. I've started eating makerel in a can with tomato sauce and being overly direct with people... I think I'm becoming Norwegian! Well I couldn't beat them, so...

In all honesty I've still not got used to expecting nothing of my pupils and to them fulfilling my every (lack) of expectation - I still tut when I see one kid passed out in the back while the others spend the whole lesson on Facebook, but I've given up hope of changing them. Kind of sad, more for them than for me, but true.

I still really love teaching and staying in Norway, and I have been overjoyed at the arrival of Spring, but I just feel like I've stopped learning things. I think I've just got into a routine. It's the same priniciple as if I had blogged about my everyday life as a student in Durham - I would've thought everyone else would be finding it as about as interesting as I was. So it'll soon be time to head on home I think! And stop this blogging malarky.

Just for now, a little word about the Norwegian exam system. Today, the students found out which subjects they will have to take an exam in. YES, THEY DON'T HAVE TO TAKE AN EXAM IN EVERY SUBJECT. They just had a lottery and let fate decide... Of course. So instead of the 11 exams I had for A-Levels, they have two. Or maybe three if they're really unlucky. But then again, they have been getting pissed everyday for the last month (see earlier post about Russ), so I guess two is all they can manage! In the subjects they don't take an exam in, they just get the mark their teacher gives them for the year. Strange but true!

So Sunday is the 17th May i.e. Norwegian National Day, so you can expect a reportage from there...

Beautiful blossom in Copenhagen

I have never been so delighted by Spring!

A French lesson

At Rory's request, here is the lesson I did today about Paris.

Match the photos to the name of the tourist attraction and its description!

Have fun reliving your school days!

The beginning of the end?

Even though I have two months left of Oslo time, I feel like everything is drawing to a close. Spring is (finally) in the air, and with it a feeling of time seeping away... Spring is all I'm going to see of Norway's vaguely mild weather (not that it's much of a spring by international standards). Saying that, there are still great piles of snow in the streets and a distinct chill in the air, but when the sun shines on me I am like a tiny lizard basking in its glow.
I think this idea that I'm leaving soon is also the end of term feeling, as I'm coming home for Easter on Friday. Everything at school is about mock exams and all the final year pupils are talking about their yearbook, their leavers ball and all that. Actually it's quite a big thing in Norway to be a 'Russ', or school leaver, so called because they take to wearing a little red hat during the raucous celebrations. Apparently this all kicks off on the first of May, then they party until Norwegian National Day i.e. 17th May i.e. BEFORE their exams! So it seems most them will be pissed every day during study leave. And it's endorsed by tradition... right...! This wikipedia article tells you a bit more about it, and more than I actually knew: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RussThis picture is from Mark's visit at the weekend, when we went to the Norsk Folkemuseum, which is full of different wooden houses which the museum picked up from all over Norway and transported to Oslo to show the traditional ways of life in Norway. This includes an original stave church, as pictured (much to Mark's amazement). It is entirely made of wood, and quite incredible. They decided to bring it down to Oslo by sled (!) from Northern Norway during the 19th Century, as with most of the houses you can also see at the museum. They have also transported an authentic 'town centre' and school house. Really quite a bizarre concept, but very interesting all the same!
We also did a little 'hiking' around near in the forest close to my house, walking on ski tracks and piste-ing off (gaffaw!) the very serious looking skiiers. We were also at the Munch museum, freezing our arses off eating packed lunch outdoors and generally just walking, walking, walking. Oh and drinking. Alcohol just tastes better when it's duty free.
All in all I got the impression that I was on holiday, and I still do a bit because at school there really is nothing to do, what with all the mock exams and that general end-of-term feeling. And with the prospect of another weeks' holiday on the horizon, I'm really not inclined to do any work!

Blogging fear

Having not written a blog for over a month, I've got cold feet... too much to tell all in one post. I've had visits from all my favourites and moved house and been enjoying the unseasonal sunshine... basically having too much of good time to write anything!
Here is a photo to make this a proper post and not just idiocy:
Oooh Bergen!